Thursday, August 25, 2011

20 Most Common Reasons for Inappropriate Feline Elimination

A cat that eliminates outside the litter box is one of the most frustrating situations. One in every 10 cats will have a litter box lapse in his or her lifetime. The 20 most common reasons are listed below.



  1. The cat is suffering from a medical problem involving the urinary tract.

  2. The cat experiences a bout of geriatric constipation.

  3. The caretaker does not keep the litter box as clean as the cat wants it to be.

  4. The owner changes the brand or type of litter.

  5. The owner changes the location of the litter box.

  6. The owner switches to deodorized or perfumed litter.

  7. The owner buys a new box and throws out the old one.

  8. The owner cleans the litter box with too harsh a cleaning product.

  9. The location of the litter box is too busy or not private enough for the cat.

  10. The home is too large for just one litter box.

  11. The cat inadvertently gets locked out of reach of the litter box.

  12. The cat is kept from using the litter box by another animal in the house.

  13. There are too many cats and not enough territory.

  14. There are too many cats and not enough litter boxes.

  15. Strays cats can be seen/smelled near the cat's territory.

  16. The unneutered male cat has come of age and is marking his territory.

  17. The unspayed female cat is in heat and advertising for suitors.

  18. Over time, the cat has developed an aversion to the texture of the litter.

  19. The cat was never properly trained to use the litter box in the first place.

  20. The cat is stressed by a change in routine or environment, including a new baby, new furniture, work schedule changes, vacation, overnight guests, or a move.

If your cat is inappropriately eliminating, please contact us and schedule an appointment with one of our doctors so they can help you with this problem.



River City Veterinary Hospital

2250 West Everest Lane

Meridian, ID 83646

208-888-7300



Saturday, July 23, 2011

Health Certificates for Pets

Health certificates are required when flying your pet from one state to another (interstate) or when flying your pet to a different country (international). As veterinarians, we want to make your travel as smooth as possible with your pet. In order to make the travel process for you and your pet as smooth as possible it is recommended that research regarding your destination be performed well in advance.

There have been a few instances when a client has intended to travel/move with their pet to a rabies free country or state (Hawaii) within a short period of time only to discover strict requirements must be met that required several months preparation prior to obtaining a health certificate.

Interstate Health Certificates: If you will be travelling with your pet (whether in the cabin or in cargo) an exam must be performed within 7-10 days of travel (check the airline for exact requirements), the pet must be in good health and must be current on rabies vaccine for a health certificate to be issued. If you are not accompanying your pet on a flight, it is recommended that the USDA is consulted to determine if there are any additional requirements. For example, Montana requires that a permit number be issued prior to issuing a health certificate if you are not accompanying your pet on the flight. EXCEPTION: Hawaii is a state that is free of rabies and has very specific guidelines that must be met prior to transporting your pet. It will take approximately 6 months to meet the requirements for transporting your pet to Hawaii. Please consult with the USDA to obtain the appropriate forms.

For Information regarding transporting your pet to Hawaii, please visit: http://hawaii.gov/hdoa/ai/aqs/info

**Note: It is recommended to contact the state veterinarian's office to be certain this is accurate.

If there are any questions regarding a state's regulations, the state veterinarian's office can be contacted. A list of state veterinarians can be found at: http://www.usaha.org/Portals/6/StateAnimalHealthOfficials.pdf

International Health Certificates: Unfortunately, there are no general rules that can be made for international health certificates as each country may have different requirements and frequently have additional forms. To issue the actual health certificate the pet must be examined and be in good health within 7-10 days of travel (check with airline for exact requirements). HOWEVER, some countries have very specific guidelines/forms regarding importation of a pet into that given country. This is especially true for countries that are free of rabies.

The best recommendation I can give is that the Veterinary Services Area Office be contacted to determine the requirements for each country. A list of offices can be found at: http://www.aphis.usda.gov/animal_health/area_offices/

Other helpful sites:

For Import and Export of animals: http://www.aphis.usda.gov/import_export/animals/animal_exports_pets.shtml

For International Export Regulations for individual countries: http://www.aphis.usda.gov/regulations/vs/iregs/animals/

For information regarding the IATA (International Air Transport Association) and IPATA (Independent Pet and Animal Transportation Association International): http://www.aphis.usda.gov/animal_welfare/pet_travel/pet_travel_tips.shtml

If you have any questions regarding health certificates we will be happy to help you obtain the information needed.

Tad Squires, DVM
Associate Veterinarian
http://www.rivercityvet.com/
tsquires@rivercityvet.com
Phone# 208-888-7300

Now Open Sundays 12-5 PM!

Wednesday, May 11, 2011

What is a Veterinary/Client/Patient/Relationship?

The Veterinary/Client/Patient/Relationship (VCPR) is a term defined by the Idaho Board of Veterinary Medicine. Without this relationship a veterinarian is unable to make medical decisions or prescribe medications. Following is the definition according to IDAPA 46.01.01.150:

"150.VALID VETERINARIAN/CLIENT/PATIENT RELATIONSHIP.
An appropriate veterinarian/client/patient relationship will exist when: 7-1-97)

01. Responsibility. The veterinarian has assumed the responsibility for making medical judgements regarding the health of the animal and the need for medical treatment, and the client (owner or other caretaker) has followed the instructions of the veterinarian. (7-1-97)

02. Medical Knowledge. There is sufficient knowledge of the animal by the veterinarian to initiate at least a general or preliminary diagnosis of the medical condition of the animal. This means that the veterinarian has seen the animal within the last twelve (12) months or is personally acquainted with the keeping and care of the animal, either by virtue of an examination of the animal, or by medically appropriate visits to the premises where the animals are maintained within the last twelve (12) months. (4-7-11)

03. Availability. The practicing veterinarian or designate is readily available for follow-up in case of adverse reactions or failure of the regimen of therapy. (3-30-07)"

According to the Idaho Board of Veterinary Medicine, a veterinarian is to NEVER prescribe a prescription medication if he/she has not seen the patient within the past 12 months. Also, a patient may be on certain medications that require a veterinarian to examine a pet more often then stated above.

Tad Squires, DVM
River City Veterinary Hospital
2250 W. Everest Lane
Meridian, ID 83646
http://www.rivercityvet.com/
info@rivercityvet.com

Tuesday, April 19, 2011

Ticks in Idaho

The ticks common to Idaho are the Brown Dog Tick (Rhipicephalus sanguineus), the Rocky Mountain Wood Tick (Dermacentor andersoni) and, to a lesser extent, the Western Blacklegged Tick (Ixodes pacificus). The Brown Dog Tick and Rocky Mountain Wood Tick can transmit the organisms responible for causing Rocky Mountain Spotted Fever (RMSF) and the Western Blacklegged Tick can transmit the organisms responsible for causing Anaplasmosis and Lyme Disease. For a geographic distribution of ticks please visit: http://www.cdc.gov/ticks/geographic_distribution.html

In order for these ticks to transmit the organisms responsible for the diseases mentioned these ticks must be attached (i.e. mouthparts inserted into the host and feeding, NOT simply on the host) for a minimum amount of time. This time varies depending on the infectious organism involved. For Lyme disease the tick needs to be attached for a minimum of 48-72 hours, and for anaplasmosis and RMSF the time for a tick to spread these infections is 24-48 hours and 5-20 hours, respectively.

The best method to prevent a potentially infected tick from spreading these infections is to: 1) Prevent ticks from getting on your pet; 2) Prevent ticks from attaching to your pet, or; 3) Remove an attached tick before it is able to transmit infectious organisms.

There are several safe and very effective products that interfer with tick neurological function within 24-48 hours (fipronil, permethrin, amitraz and pyriprole). In an ideal world these products would completely prevent ticks from getting on your pet. The reality is that you should see much fewer ticks than normal on your pet and if a tick does attach the tick should be killed or feeding disrupted by the product so it is unable to spread disease.

It is possible for pathogens such as Anaplasma and Rickettsia to be transmitted before ticks are killed. However, toxicity to the tick is cumulative and neuromuscular activity of feeding may be disrupted, and thus spread of infectious organisms disrupted, prior to a tick being dead.

Your pet should be examined for ticks daily after being outside. To remove a tick use a fine-tipped tweezer and grasp as close to the skin as possible. While grasping the tick pull the tick away from the skin slowly until the tick is removed.

For tick removal from your pet please visit: http://www.cdc.gov/ticks/avoid/on_pets.html

Tad Squires, DVM
River City Veterinary Hospital
2250 W. Everest Lane
Meridian, ID 83646
http://www.rivercityvet.com/
info@rivercityvet.com

Monday, April 18, 2011

Explaining Pet Loss to Children

Many of us will face this at one time or another and it is never easy. This is an informative article that gives good insight, but ultimately, each family will have to decide how they are going to handle explaining the loss of a pet to their children.

Sara Liddell, DVM

Explaining Pet Loss to Children: Six Dos and Don'ts
Death and dying are two of the hardest facts of life to explain to children. Very often, the death of a family pet is a child's first encounter with this immutable law of nature. How we handle this event can have a far-reaching impact on our children's understanding of death and dying.

Eleven-year-old Maria, for instance, was used to greeting her cat Feifel every day after school. One day, he didn't appear. Maria and her mother found Feifel under a bed, breathing weakly. The veterinarian said Feifel had heart disease. He might be able to save him, but Feifel was 14 and suffered from several other age-related problems.
His quality of life would only grow worse. The most humane course to take was euthanasia. Later, her family held a memorial service, and Maria wrote poems about him.

An Informal Guide to a Child's Psyche
At 11, Maria understood euthanasia and the finality of death. It didn't make the grieving and sense of loss any easier, but she knew that all living things eventually die. After some time, she was able to remember her pet with more love than hurt.

But children younger than Maria often view their relationship with a pet as indefinite. They don't understand that animals run on a different biological clock, or that illness or injury may make euthanasia the best option.

At all ages, honesty is the best policy, says Marty Tously, a bereavement counselor. "That means using the words death and dying, and explaining the permanence of death. You do it gently but without confusing what dying actually means."

Tously is a counselor with the Pet Grief Support Service. She says that a child's ability to understand what death means depends on his/her emotional and cognitive development, but outlined the generally understood guideline of how children perceive death and dying:

Under 2: A child can feel and respond to a pet's death, based on the reaction of those around him or her. A child picks up the stress felt by family members, no matter what the cause.

2 to 5: The child will miss the animal as a playmate, but not necessarily as a love object. They will see death as a temporary state - something like the way leaves fall off a tree in fall but grow back in the spring. As they perceive the trauma around them, however, they may regress in their behavior (e.g., thumb sucking).

5 to 9: Children begin to perceive death as permanent, but they may indulge in "magical thinking," believing that death can be defied or bargained with. This is also the period when children recognize a correlation between what they think and what happens. For instance, a child may resent taking care of the pet and wish - however briefly - that the pet would die. If the pet then dies, the child is often consumed with guilt. Parents need to reassure children that they did not cause the pet's death.

10 and up: Children generally understand that all living things will eventually die, and that death is final. Understanding and accepting are two different things, however. They may go through the five normal stages of grief that grownups do: denial, anger, bargaining, depression, and acceptance. Or they may react in other ways:

Depending on the age, the child may regress (sucking their thumb or temper tantrums that they had outgrown).
An older child may withdraw from friends and family for a while. Schoolwork may suffer and they may seem uninterested in extracurricular activities.
Children may fear abandonment. If a pet can die, then they may reason that their parents could die as well.
Children often become intensely curious about death and what happens to the body. They may ask for details that you may find uncomfortable to explain. These are questions you should answer in a straightforward, gentle and careful manner.
Dos and Don'ts
Tously explains that the worst course of action is to lie (to say the animal went away) or to use confusing euphemisms, such as the phrase "put to sleep." Children will eventually learn the truth, and lying can breed resentment and destroy trust between parent and child. "Later in life, when the child learns the truth, they'll wonder what else the parent lied about," she says.

Likewise, euphemisms can cause anxiety or confusion because children take what you say literally. "If you say a pet is put to sleep, the child may suffer sleep anxiety," says Tously. She recalls one child who was told his cocker spaniel just "went away." He awaited his dog's return, and upon learning the dog had been buried wanted to unearth the dog. "If you say 'God has taken your pet because he was special,' the child may resent God, and fear who might be next."

Be open and honest. This includes the pet's health and euthanasia. "If a pet is terminally ill and needs to be euthanized," Tously says, "the child needs to be told as soon as possible by the parent." Again, avoid those tempting euphemisms that cloud understanding, such as telling a child the pet was put to sleep. Use the words death and dying to make your meaning clear. Some children want to be present during euthanasia and most will be very curious about the process. Tously says you should answer their questions. As for allowing the child to be present, some veterinarians are firmly against it; others say it depends on the child's age and maturity.
Make sure the child understands what "dying" means. Explain that the animal's body stopped working. Depending on your religious beliefs and what the child can understand, you might explain the concept of a soul. However, it is important for the child to know that the pet has died and will not be coming back.
Be available to let your child discuss his/her feelings about what happened. You may want to hold your own service to memorialize the pet and to say goodbye formally. Some people plant trees in a special spot in the yard, others bury the pet in a cemetery so the family can visit. Encourage your child to show his/her feelings by talking or writing about the fun times they had with their pet.
Show your own feelings. This tells the child that the pet was special and that they are not grieving alone. You can also encourage your child to open up, which can help the healing process.
Tell your child's teachers about the loss, so they will understand why your child is behaving differently.
Don't blame the veterinarian. Some parents, especially those who fear explaining euthanasia to their children, find it easier to lay it all on the veterinarian. This is not only unfair to the veterinarian, but potentially harmful to the child. He or she may grow up distrusting veterinarians and, by extension, doctors and other medical professionals.
In addition, parents shouldn't throw the responsibility of telling the children what needs to be done on the veterinarian. Your veterinarian can help the parent explain why euthanasia may be the most humane option, and answer questions the child may have.

Parents often want to ease their child's hurt by rushing out and buying another pet. Tously says this is a mistake. "The last thing you want to do is convey the impression that the pet - a family member - is replaceable," she says. Wait until the child expresses an interest in another pet.

Children are very resilient, and they usually learn to accept their pet is gone. If a child persists with nightmares or seems unable to cope, however, it may be necessary to talk with a counselor.

Where to Turn for Help
Local shelters often hold workshops and support groups to help people after pet loss. Contact your local shelter for information. There are also a number of organizations dedicated to helping people cope around the country.

Content Provided by Petplace.com - Alex Lieber

Saturday, April 16, 2011

Heat Stroke

Summer is almost here and many of us can't help but take our dogs with us to enjoy the sunshine and fun outdoor activities. Of course our dogs will whole heartedly agree with this idea. Dogs go with us to the park, on the green belt, in the foothills, to the lake, running, bike riding, and even in the car to run errands. Keep in mind, what is intended as enjoyable time spent with our pets, can actually put their lives at risk.

As the temperature rises, so do the chances of your pet overheating. It is a common misconception to think that dogs tolerate heat better than humans. Humans dissipate heat extremely effectively by sweating and then through evaporative cooling. Think of how nice a slight breeze feels when you're really hot and perspiring. This breeze has no benefit to your dog when he is hot. Dogs can only cool down by panting. The only place they can sweat is through the pads of their feet. If their feet are sweating, they are too hot. Panting is not a very effective way to cool down. A short walk in the foothills on a hot day can become deadly, especially if the dog is overweight or out of shape. For fit dogs, the same run that was a short easy run in the winter can be lethal in the summer.

On an 85 degree day, the temperature inside your car, even with the windows open a bit, will climb to 102 degrees in 10 minutes. After half an hour, it will go up to 120 degrees or even higher! On a 90 degree day, temperatures in that car can top 160 degrees literally in minutes! Leaving a dog in the bed of a truck is not much better. The metal bed reflects heat back up at your pet and can become extremely hot. The hot metal can burn the feet (hop in your truck bed bare foot on a warm day!). Remember, the breeze created when driving does little good for your furry friend who does not sweat (not to mention the dangers of him falling out of the back of the truck, but that‘s another issue)!

Short-nosed dogs are particularly sensitive to heat stroke. These include Boston terriers, Bulldogs, Pug Dogs, Boxers, etc. They have very small airways and panting is an even less effective cooling method for them.

As an emergency veterinarian, I have seen many cases of heat stroke. None of these owners ever thought they were hurting their best friend by taking them outside to enjoy the day. Often times it was the same walk they have taken many times but on cooler days. Sometimes they were taken to the store with the owner and left in the car for only a few minutes. Prevention is the key. The most important thing is to avoid situations in which your pet could overheat. Monitor your pet very closely when playing in the heat. Dogs do not know when to quit and will literally play until they drop. This especially applies when jogging or biking with your dog. Play and run near water if possible and let him get in the water as he much or little as he wants to. If you are not planning to be near water, bring plenty of water for him to drink and even some to keep him wet. Avoid hot spots such as concrete, black top, or hot sandy areas with little shade. These areas can be very hot even in the shade and, again, the hot surfaces can damage the pads of their feet as well. Watch for excessive panting, agitation, hanging his head below his shoulders, inability to keep up with you on the walk/run, vomiting or diarrhea. These are signs to stop the activity, get him to a cool place, provide water, or even more effectively, wet down his fur so the breeze helps to cool him down. Seek veterinary care immediately after cooling him if vomiting or diarrhea occurs.

Unfortunately, there are many times when cooling methods are not enough and the damage from overheating is extensive. A dog's body temperature is normally between 101 and 102°F. A rise of only 3 degrees is all it takes for your dog to be in a dangerous situation. At 108°F, the heart, brain, liver, kidneys, and intestinal tracts begin breaking down at a cellular level, and the damage progresses rapidly. Treatment with IV fluids, electrolyte replacement, IV antibiotics, and even blood transfusions may be necessary to treat the complications of heat stroke and if serious enough, the outcome can be, and often is, fatal.

Again, prevention is the key. With a little common sense and planning ahead, summer will be a fun time for both you and your pet. When considering taking your dog with you this summer, if you can't be sure of the heat, availability of shade or access to water, leave him at home in the AC and play with him when you get home in the cool of the evening.

Sara Liddell, DVM

River City Veterinary Hospital
2250 W. Everest Lane Meridian, ID 83616
208-888-7300
www.rivercityvet.com
info@rivercityvet.com

Tuesday, April 12, 2011

My dog ruptured its cranial cruciate ligament! Now what?

It is a Sunday afternoon in October and you are settled in to the recliner with a bowl of chips and an ice cold b...e...verage. You are watching your favorite football team (likely the Minnesota Vikings!:)) on tv. The receiver for said team has just made an amazing catch but landing akwardly and falls to the ground. He is in pain and grabbing his knee. He is carried away on a stretcher to the locker room. Later it is discovered he has torn his ACL (Anterior Cruciate Ligament) and his season is over...

The canine equivalent to this ligament is the CCL (Cranial Cruciate Ligament). This ligament is located in the knees (back legs). Injury to this ligament is very common in dogs. However, in dogs tears to the ligament are not traumatic as they are in people. The disease process in dogs is more chronic and degenerative. That is, the ligament gradually degenerates over time. Now, the most common presentation for this injury goes something like this: the dog was just outside running around and when she came back inside she was limping on her left rear leg and not wanting to put any weight on it. It appears that a traumatic injury has occurred, but the ligament was likely already compromised.

So, what to do when you find out your dog has torn its CCL? First off, there are many reasons why your dog may be limping, so do not assume it is a CCL tear. Bring your dog to your family veterinarian first for an exam. Once a CCL tear has been diagnosed there are some things that must be noted: 1) The biomechanics and pathophysiology are different than in humans, so treatment is different. 2) This is a surgical problem. Pain can be MANAGED with medication but the problem has not been solved. 3) There are a several different procedures available to treat a torn CCL. There are pros and cons to the procedures, which should be discussed with you by your family veterinarian and/or a board certified veterinary surgeon.

The most common procedures performed these days are an extracapsular repair (most commonly a lateral suture stabilization), Tibial Plateau Leveling Osteotomy (TPLO) and Tibial Tuberosity Advancement (TTA). With all the procedures the medial meniscus(cartilage that acts as a cushion for the forces generated between the femur and tibia) is evaluated for tear(s). The extracapsular technique basically stabilizes the joint by use of a strong suture material. The TPLO and TTA techniques change the geometry of the tibial plateau to correct tibial thrust. In general, there appears to be a consensus amoung veterinary surgical specialists that dogs having the TPLO or TTA procedure tend to have a more rapid "return to function" compared to the extracapsular repair. With all procedures post-operative physical therapy greatly improves recovery and return to function.

For more information regarding Cranial Cruciate Ligament Rupture please visit the American College of Veterinary Surgeons website at this link:

http://www.acvs.org/AnimalOwners/HealthConditions/SmallAnimalTopics/CranialCruciateLigamentRupture/

Tad Squires, DVM
River City Veterinary Hospital
2250 W. Everest Lane
Meridian, ID 83646
http://www.rivercityvet.com/
info@rivercityvet.com